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What matters now. A publication from Medium about politics, power, and culture.

Sea

In GEN. More on Medium.

Great Escape

A surfer challenges modern American narratives about black bodies, water, and freedom

The cold of the Pacific Ocean hits you like a drug high. It’s a painful, pleasant shock to the system. The water bites, but doesn’t break the skin. Instead, it penetrates.

As you walk into the water, the purple light of dawn against your back and a surfboard under your arm, you equally welcome and recoil from the predictable sting. The first wave swallows and submerges you. When you resurface, the cold runs down from the crown of your head; it streaks past your eyebrows and rushes down your face in tiny rivers of frigid liquid. The sea water exhilarates…

GEN

What matters now. A publication from Medium about politics, power, and culture.

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